Archive for the ‘Flooring’ Category

Laying Tiles: Lay Tiles Made Easy

Before you start lay the tiles, it is necessary to make a plan so that corners and edges are perfectly tiled. After that you should assess the nature of the substrate, if necessary, the front surface as straightened treated.

laying tiles

It should be noted also that the tiles in interior or exterior should not be placed, or a floor heating system is placed below or should be. Accordingly, the tile and mortar will be chosen, it may even be that the tiles to be placed on the wall. The base should be tested for absorbency and sustainability. All these things must be clarified in advance.

Dan has adjusted the right tool to be laid. The first is the tile adhesive, it must be chosen according to the tile material and the load, tile cutter, impregnation for the tiles, the layout plan.

Now to the flowing area is divided symmetrically, so that a straight line can come about in the tiles. A cross tiles can provide a good support so that the spacing between the tiles are consistently large. First, is applied to the first row of tile adhesives, but never more than you can tile in 10 to 15 minutes. If the first row is tiled, you start again, to raise tile adhesive and then to tile on. If the area is tiled, it is worthwhile in any case, to clean them and then to impregnate, so that the joy of holding the tiles long and they do not look old after a short stress.

Mineral Flooring

Mineral floors are the generic term for natural stone, building stone and tiles. They are all characterized by a high mechanical resistance to abrasion and impression. Preferred applications of these coatings are high-traffic areas, and thus strained, eg Hallways and entryways. Then add mineral surfaces with appropriate treatment / production process, almost no humidity, such materials are suitable for damp rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms, etc.) very well suited.

natural stone flooring

Concrete block
Concrete slabs are made of natural rocks such as marble, Jura, quartzite, travertine, which are crushed and then taken using the binder of cement in slab form.
After the curing process of the binder, the cement slab surface is sanded to achieve a smooth, homogeneous and aesthetic structure of the coating on.
For the laying of concrete blocks is almost exclusively the mortar bed method is used.

Stone
Natural stone floors are made of solid, sawn, milled or broken slabs of rock such as marble, travertine, limestone, or dolomite.
As with the concrete blocks, these coverings preferably in the mortar bed method laid, with small plate thicknesses can be inserted in the bonding process.

Ceramic tiles
Ceramic plates, so-called “stoneware plates” consist of the raw materials of sand, kaolin and clay, which are fired after mixing in the kiln until there at approximately 1200 ° C, a sintering of the material.
The sintering gives these surfaces, a closed surface structure and thus makes them resistant to moisture, even without glazing. On the use of colored clays and metal oxides of various colors are available, for example, indicates a reddish color after firing on iron oxide components, while parts of lime causing a yellowish color. The transfer takes place in the mortar bed or in the adhesive process.

Brick clay plates
Starting material for Brick clay plates is sound, a weathering product of feldspar and clay, which is burned in a furnace at temperatures of 800 to 900 ° C to plates.
At these low firing temperatures still occurs no Sintering effect, the plates are therefore not closed, but a porous surface structure. Most of these plates with sealing means such as waxes or oils will be equipped to make the floor easy to clean surfaces. (Capacity reduction of pollution, prevention of moisture).
As Siting opportunities available provide the mortar bed and bonding procedures.

Brick panels
Clinker tiles are similar in materials and manufacturing processes with Brick clay plates, but brick panels with much higher firing temperatures to burn (about 1200 ° C), which has a sintering of the material in this episode.
The panels have a closed-surface structure and are very hard, wet and frost. Such coverings are laid in the mortar bed.

Physical properties
All mineral deposits have a high density and good thermal conductivity. One frequently a mineral flooring with underfloor heating combined to compensate for a decisive disadvantage of mineral surfaces, the so-called “Cold feet” too.
All mineral floors of the building materials are classified in Class A1 to DIN 4102 (not flammable).
When using plates with a density of more than 1600 kg/m3 can be transferred from a reduction of airborne noise are considered, the structure-borne sound is transmitted from the hard surfaces well against it. It should, by taking account of constructive measures (floating screed sound propagation) are reduced.

Environmental Aspects
Mineral floors are generally classified as ecological problems, is caused by the absence of organic materials and a touching burden of indoor air be excluded, even if the used tile adhesive releases no VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds).

Attention will be starting materials, which show an increase in radioactivity, such as granite, including those used glazes can contain uranium dioxide.

Mineral floors are well suited by their smooth, wipe face surface for allergy sufferers, as can be dust and the associated allergens easy to remove.

Non-Slip Tiles to Prevent Risk of Accidents

About 250,000 people take after an accident in your own bathroom sometimes substantial injuries. For example, shampoo and shower gel may also remains standing water quickly become an involuntary glissade. One of the most common causes of a domestic accident is slipping on smooth, moist soils. Here are mostly bruises, head injuries and broken bones as a result. It also floor mats and bathroom runners can not entirely avoid the risk of accidents.

Non-slip tiles to prevent risk of accidents

The company union has ceramic tile porcelain stoneware CERO ARARAT ® in the range, is not an ordinary tile. It is a little protector! Yes, you could almost say: a “life saver”. Slips and trips have no chance. Safe walking and standing, and the ease in and out of shower and bath are guaranteed thanks to the tile. The slip-resistant tile is available in different versions, so that there are many design variations possible. Here, beautiful design meets the safety of housing. The material is extremely resistant to stains, water and detergents. This tile will lose even after years of neither quality nor of resilience.

History of Radiant Floor Heating

In the beginning, the Romans created the heavens and the earth. Well, not really, though they did do some pretty amazing things. Seriously, around 2000 years ago, the ancient Romans invented a system that utilized steam and hot air to warm a room. They built large public communal bathhouses with heating systems so that the men could bath and soak in warm water. A cold bath is not very relaxing or comfortable and could “give rise to” (or not) some embarrassing moments. So necessity being the mother of invention, radiant heating was born.The roman system was based on the hypocaust (see diagram), which is made of ducts that run under the floor and flues that were built into walls to carry the heat away. Hot air or steam from fires would circulate through this system, warming the floor and walls, with heat passing into the rooms.This turned out to be a fairly dangerous practice. 


the hypocaust


Since the majority of the heat was created using fire, it is believed that carbon monoxide would creep into the rooms through cracks in the bricks. Today, we understand the effects of carbon monoxide poisoning, but in ancient roman times, it had the potential to be deadly.Moving forward to the 12th century, Muslim engineers improved this rudimentary heating system by directing the heat and smoke through pipes laid in the flooring instead of openly dispersing it below.Shortly after, the Romans adapted this newer heating methodology, and so did the Koreans.  In Korea, they captured heat generated from cooking and called it an Ondol.  An Ondol was made up of three parts: a stove or fireplace, a chimney, and horizontal flues under the flooring.  On top of the flue system was a thick, flat stone called a Kudul and on top of the Kadul was flattened yellow soil topped with rice paper. And so, the Kadul became warm as a result of the heat passing through the flues under the flooring.

In fact, this type of heating is still used in Korea today. When the country switched to the commonly used western forced heating system, many missed their traditional Ondol and returned to their ancient ways. Of course, there has been further advancement in floor heating, but we will get to that shortly.In the early 1900’s, Frank Lloyd Wright was visiting a Japanese nobleman with an Ondol.  He liked the idea of radiant heating so much that he invented a new water based system – hydronic radiant heating.  Instead of hot air blowing through flues, he routed hot water through pipes. This gave birth to a much safer radiant heating method, resulting in far fewer people being burned or dying from carbon monoxide poisoning.

Since then, the path of radiant heating has taken many turns, but currently, the most popular methods are hydronic and electric radiant heating. Both types are installed below the flooring and are safe. Both methods are superior to most any other heating system. However, hydronic typically is best for new construction when a whole house method of heating is desired, and electric is best for a specific room application. Most often, it is installed in a kitchen or bathroom remodel, or when putting an addition on your home, like a sunroom.

The History of Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood Flooring has been apart of our economy and homes dating back to the medieval times. Although the history of hardwood flooring has been through many tribulations, today it plays a huge role in the flooring industry. After WWII the numbers were estimated to be over 1 billion. But once carpet was available for homeowners the numbers dropped dramatically. Carpet was introduced being cheaper for buyers and so the demand for hardwood plummeted. Today the majority of homeowners and builders choose hardwood flooring, Not only for the beauty, but unlike carpet hardwood last many years.


hardwood flooring



There are three main types of hardwood flooring. It’s very important to consider how much traffic you will have on these floors before choosing. There is a layer the manufacturers put on prefinished flooring called veneer also known as wear layer. For a heavy traffic area you want to look for a veneer layer of 1/8 inch or more.

Solid hardwood flooring is non-altered solid wood. The most common solid hardwood flooring species are Red Oak, White Oak, and maple. Solid wood flooring and be refinished several times. This actually adds to their beauty and life. It’s very complex to install, because you have to consider expansion room when installing. During the dry winter months moisture can leave the wood making it change slightly in size, therefore causing gaps between the planks of wood. But during the summer the wood will expand back filling in the gaps. Keeping the solid hardwood flooring away from moisture is a must because it can cause it to buckle. To prevent this, it’s recommended that you do not use it in a room that is underground such as a basement and do not install over top concrete slab.

Acrylic Impregnated Hardwood Flooring is traditional hardwood that has been altered or injected with extreme high strengths of acrylic to improve the durability and the life of the wood. They are known for being strong and resistant to humidity. Because these floors are infused with color throughout the wood planks it makes the color last longer and helps protect against scratches. You can also make unfinished flooring into acrylic impregnated hardwood but skipping the last steps of finishing such as buffing, staining, waxing and injecting acrylic monomers into the woods structure. This will make the wood more durable and ready for any household.

Engineered Hardwood flooring is real wood. But unlike solid wood where it is all one piece, engineered is approximately 3 to 10 layers of wood that are glued together in a process known has cross-plying construction. So the difference between solid and engineered is that engineered is more stable than solid and is able to be around light moisture. So it can be installed below ground and over top a concrete slab. But solid wood can be refinished and engineered with a wear layer of 1/10’’ cannot be. Another advantage is once you receive your flooring and it is installed you don’t have to wait like you would solid wood to be able to walk on it.

All these different types of hardwood flooring come in many colors and shades. It is an investment to put in any home new or old. Just remember to pick the right flooring for you and the space your using it for so it last many years to come.

Laminate Floors – How to Install and Maintain This Attractive Alternative to Hardwood

When installed and maintained properly, your laminate flooring will give you many years of service. In fact, one of the best features of laminate is how easy and inexpensive it is to care for. Anyone considering laminate floors should be aware of the differences between them, as these differences often determine installation methods and care requirements.


laminate flooring


Laminate Floors- How to Install for the Best Results
Before you install your laminate floor, keep in mind that most of the problems that arise later with laminate floors are due to improper installation. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for your particular flooring. In general, there are three basic types of installation for laminate- standard, pre-glued and snap-and-lock.

The one you choose will depend on your budget, skill level and the kind of design you desire. Standard installation requires that you glue the laminate directly to the subfloor using laminate adhesive. This method is not appropriate for floating floors, but keeps the flooring securely attached in much the same way as tile flooring. Pre-glued laminate installation is for floors that come with adhesive already applied to the back. You simply wet the glue with water and secure to the subfloor.

Snap-and-lock installation is probably the most popular method of laminate floor installation. It allows the do-it-yourselfer to easily lay down the floor without the use of adhesives. Snap-and-lock floors snap together using a locking tongue and groove mechanism. All methods of installation require a flat, level surface, and don't forget to acclimatize your flooring to your home for at least 48 hours prior to installation to prevent buckling.

Proper Maintenance of Laminate Floors for Years of Lasting Beauty
Once your floor is properly installed, you need to keep it looking good. Like hardwood, a clean laminate floor is a happy floor. Unlike hardwood, however, laminate requires no sanding, sealing or refinishing. A simple damp mopping with mild detergent will maintain the good looks of your laminate floor for years. Another tip is to keep the room temperature at about 72 degrees and monitor the humidity to prevent warping.

Always lift furniture when moving it or you may scratch your laminate. Use felt pads whenever possible. Other common sense measures include removing dirt and oil from the edges of the floor and around area rugs, and avoiding abrasive cleaners. Follow these guidelines for the installation and care of your laminate floor and you will get to enjoy its beauty for many years.

Amendoim Flooring

In recent years, exotic hardwood flooring has become quite prosperous, in part due to the prevalent reviews it receives for quality, durability, and beauty. Popular species include Tigerwood, Jatoba, Ipe, and a species that can at times be overlooked – Amendoim. Like many South American hardwoods, Amendoim flooring has a plethora of names, ranging from common tongue names to botanical recognitions – this species is known as Pterogyne Nitens, a name that refers to the “winged ovary” appearance of the seeds – such as viraro, ibiraro, and pau fava. More commonly, Brazilian Oak is used to reference this species, although it can at times be confusing as Tauari is sometimes referred to as Brazilian Oak as well. How or where this connotation comes from is a nuance yet discovered within the flooring industry – although speculations are abound.


Amendoim Flooring



The Amendoim tree grows most successfully in Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina, and can grow to an average height of 25 meters (about 75 – 80 feet), although individual specimen have been recorded in excess of 100 feet tall. The tree itself is usually about 90 centimeters in diameter (about 35 inches) but have been known to grow as wide as 120 CM thick (almost 50 inches).

In addition to uses as a flooring product, Amendoim shows a fine workability feature for cabinetry and furniture as well. The wood itself sands and finishes exceptionally well, making it a good choice for practical uses, as well as for home-finishing products. Because of the receptive quality of Amendoim to common finishes, installers and customers interested in finishing the flooring will find a relative ease compared to more difficult products. Amendoim sands well, making it less problematic to sand and refinish five or ten years into the lifespan of the floor.

The Janka rating system offers a numerical value to the specific hardness of hardwood flooring that can be comparatively used in different species of wood. More often, exotic species boast higher Janka ratings, and Amendoim is no exception. With nearly 50% more rating than Red Oak, Amendoim is a natural choice for a hard floor. Amendoim’s tentative value is 1912, putting it above even hard maple.

The color variation that Amendoim offers ranges from a yellowish brown to a reddish brown depending on the wood used. Heartwood is the darker, bearing an often red streak to it, while the more yellow-tan colorations denote the sapwood. Like most floors, Amendoim will darken with exposure to sunlight and oxygen, however the change in color is often less sharp than some of its other Brazilian cousins. So you can see that while Amendoim may not get the center spotlight in the Brazilian Exotic flooring category, it is certainly a well-deserved supporting role.

Quartz Worktops – Give a Stylish Look to Your Home

Quartz is actually a blend of quartz and resins that create a hard durable surface that can look and feel a lot like granite. Quartz products are durable, heat resistance and have many different colors and edge profiles to choose from. The average investment is about $70 to $75 per square foot with installation.


Quartz Worktops


To give an attractive look to your home, you must be thinking of some innovative ideas. Now, you innovative ideas must not be concerned with only the decoration only but also must be oriented towards making your home a durable one. When it comes to decoration and durability together, marble and granite products are best to choose.

Marble products like marble tiles, marble fireplaces and marble staircases are widely used in modern homes. Marble tiles play a very important role in flooring and are preferably used in the decoration of the walls of kitchen and bathroom. The staircases at your home may make it more appealing, if constructed with the right selection of marble in terms of quality, color theme and texture. Marble fireplaces accomplish both the purposes i.e. providing warmth and adding glitz to the decor of the particular room, where they are used.

For surfacing, you can pick out engineered quartz stone surface. It is an intelligent step to use engineered quartz stone surface from the point of durability due to presence of quartz in it. Engineered quartz slabs are manufactured with the high ratio of pure quartz, which varies from brand to brand. No extra sealing is required as engineered quartz stone surface is non-porous.

This property makes it resistant towards stains caused by fruit juices, wine, tea, marker and food coloring. This non-porous nature of engineered quartz surface is too hygienic to shelter the bacteria and other harmful micro organs. Therefore it is 100% safe to be used in constructing kitchen slabs.











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